Electronics are one of the best categories to flip and one of the easiest to get burned on, and the reason is the same: you can't tell a working unit from a dead one by looking at it. "Works great" is a claim, and half the time the seller genuinely believes it and is still wrong. So before your cash leaves your hand, you test it. Here's what I actually check, standing in the driveway.
The universal rule: power it on in front of you
Never buy an untested electronic at a price that assumes it works. Bring a charger, ask them to have it charged, meet somewhere with an outlet, whatever it takes — but see it turn on and do its job before you pay. If they can't or won't power it on, treat it as broken and pay broken-money. If it's fine, you got a bonus.
Phones and tablets
- Power on, then check the screen for dead pixels, cracks under a screen protector, and burn-in (a solid color reveals it).
- Test the touchscreen edge to edge, the cameras front and back, and a charge on the actual port.
- Check activation lock. This is the big one — make sure iCloud / Google account is signed out. A locked phone is a paperweight, and this is the scam that gets new flippers.
Game consoles
- Boot it, load a game, and let it run a couple of minutes to catch overheating and fan noise.
- Test the controllers, the ports, and that it reads a disc if it has a drive.
- Confirm it's factory reset / signed out of the previous owner's account.
Laptops
- Boot fully to the desktop — a machine that won't get past a password or a BIOS lock is a project, not a deal.
- Check the battery holds a charge unplugged, test the keyboard, trackpad, USB ports, and Wi-Fi.
- Listen for a grinding fan and look for swelling that lifts the trackpad — a puffing battery is a real cost.
TVs and monitors
- Power on and put a full-screen image up: look for dead pixels, lines, and dark blotches (backlight failure).
- Cracks hide well when the screen's off, so insist on seeing it lit.
- These are heavy and low-value if they're older, so factor the haul against the payoff.
Read the listing like a skeptic first
Half the testing happens before you drive out. A missing "powered on" photo, "for parts," "just needs a charger," or a stock image instead of the real thing are all signals to assume the worst and price like it. It's the same contradiction-hunting that keeps you out of trouble generally — see "is it worth flipping?".
Let something flag the sketchy ones first
You can only test what you drive out to see, so the earlier you filter the duds the better. Worth Radar reads a listing's photos and description, flags the contradictions and too-good pricing that usually mean "untested or broken," and checks the real resale value against sold comps — so the electronics you spend a trip testing are the ones actually worth testing.